In North Karelia the border guard is training conscripts, the only road crossing is empty – but there is still some limited cross-border cooperation

Among the serene lakes, thick forest and summer houses of North Karelia’s border zone, the line between Finland and Russia is almost invisible. Walking along the border path in Meriinaho, part of the Finnish border guard station of Ilomantsi, we are closer to St Petersburg than to Helsinki. This is the most easterly point of the continental European Union.

Every now and then a discreet pair of matching striped fibreglass posts pop up from the blueberry patches on either side of the frontier. One is painted blue and white to indicate Finland, the other green and red to mark Russia.